Thursday, August 31, 2006

Too close to home

Four hours after I wrote the last post about security deteriorating in Afghanistan, three rockets hit Kabul. These things are launched from 30 kilometers away and have no intended target, and they rarely cause any casualties unless it lands on someone's head. Nonetheless, when one of them landed and detonated in the yard of in my organization's staff house, where all my coworkers were sleeping, I felt like it was a bit too close to home. It did not do much physical damage, but surely, it still fulfilled its purpose: to scare the crap out of the internationals, the aid workers, and the liberal Afghan majority who yearn for peace and progress.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Security on my mind

In the past few months, security has gotten significantly worse in Afghanistan. Every other day, the media reports are dire: 17 people dead in a Kandahar suicide bombing, four soldiers dead in a battle against Taliban in Uruzgan, the office of an international aid organization raided and two Afghans guards killed. It's on everybody's minds and lips -- Why is it happening? Where is it going? What can be done about it?

Though I am an optimist and perhaps even an idealist by blood, it is difficult to sift through the general negativity that envelopes this place to find the few positive signs of progess. Some expats are leaving, disillusioned that things have gotten worse in the few years that they have been here. Other stay but doubt the relevancy of their work in the face of an ever stronger anti-democratic, anti-development, anti-Western insurgency.

Whenever I have those moments, I turn to my Afghan colleagues. Having lived through 25 years of more or less uninterrupted war, communism and Talibanism, these people are hard to phase. "Neeh, this is not so bad" they say, even as armed hooligans try to break into the office compound. One older gentleman even called this the Taliban's last "spasm" before its ultimate demise and death.

It makes me feel better for the moment. But then I remember that these are people who live in Kabul -- which is an island of security -- who have relatively well-paying jobs, and who are liberally minded enough to work with foreigners. They represent a small minority of the Afghan population.

Nobody has a good idea of what should be done to improve the security situation. Or rather, there are too many ideas, all interconnected, but ultimately dependent on foreign funding, military committments, and coordination that is nowhere in sight. So, for now, I will just keep telling myself that sooner or later the tide just has to turn.

Saturday, August 12, 2006

Street scenes

Taking a walk on the streets of Kabul, here are some of the things you see.

A bunch of "antique" sewing machines that are more useful than modern ones when there's no electricity most of the day (currently we get five hours every other night).
A barber shop, or "saloon", where a man can get a haircut and a headmassage for less than two dollars. Still looking for a place that will give a woman a head massage.
A man fixing the old jeans you threw out last winter.
Children carrying water in whatever receptacles are available, even old motor-oil bottles. Since women typically do not go out of the house alone, and men work long hours, fetching water is usually the task of young children.
A colorful gas station. Gasoline is sold in big plastic dunks, after (probably) being smuggled in from a neighboring country.